Two decades ago, long before birdwatching became a popular weekend activity in Kathmandu, a small group of enthusiastic nature lovers gathered at dawn with binoculars around their necks and bird guidebooks in their backpacks. Their destination was not a distant national park or remote forest, but the very heart of Kathmandu Valley, its World Heritage Sites.
Every outing began before sunrise. As the first rays of light touched the golden spires of Swoyambhu, the songs of barbets, woodpeckers, warblers, and bulbuls echoed through the ancient forest surrounding the stupa. The city was slowly waking up, yet the hilltop belonged to the birds. Birders carefully noted every sighting, realizing that these sacred forests were much more than cultural treasures, they were thriving urban ecosystems.
On another weekend, the team explored the forests of Pashupatinath, where the holy Bagmati River flowed beside centuries old temples. Amidst the chants of devotees and temple bells, parakeets, flycatchers, nuthatches, and white-eyes moved quietly through the trees. The group soon understood that these spiritual landscapes also served as vital refuges for wildlife, despite increasing urban pressure.
The journey often continued east to Changu Narayan, where the peaceful hilltop temple overlooked the valley. Here, the excitement was different. Raptors circled above the forest, including Shikra, Besra, Black Eagle, and even the majestic Mountain Hawk Eagle. Every observation reminded the team how remarkably rich these heritage forests remained, even as Kathmandu expanded around them.
Between 2004 and 2006, birders documented 82 bird species across these three World Heritage Sites—64 at Swoyambhu, 62 at Pashupatinath, and 53 at Changu Narayan. More importantly, they demonstrated that cultural heritage and natural heritage were inseparable. On a typical morning, spotting 30 to 40 bird species was common, making these sites some of the finest urban birdwatching locations in Nepal.
Looking back today, those early birdwatching walks were about much more than keeping a bird list. They inspired hundreds of people to appreciate nature, highlighted the conservation value of Kathmandu’s sacred forests, and showed that birds are powerful indicators of a healthy urban environment. What began as a handful of volunteers quietly exploring temple forests has grown into a movement that continues to connect people with birds, nature, and conservation.
The birds are still there, though many face greater challenges than they did twenty years ago. Yet every FoB birdwatching event carries the same hope as those early mornings, that by watching birds, people will also learn to care for the habitats that have protected both nature and culture for centuries.
This article is written based on the research article (Birds Diversity in World Heritage Sites of Kathmandu Valley, 2006 – by FoB)
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